I have had the good fortune to travel all over the world—for both business and pleasure, not that those are mutually exclusive. This blog is about my unique experiences around the globe. It is not intended as a paean to the wonders of the locales themselves, as there already exist volumes that more than do justice to the magnificence of virtually every corner of this earth. Here, I simply recount small, personal moments of surprise, embarrassment, stupidity, excitement, fear, heroics, and other stuff like that.
* * *
Kuwait City, Kuwait…September 1994. My first trip to the Middle East was to a country just three years removed from the ravages of the Iraqi invasion and Saddam Hussein’s attempted annexation of its oil fields. While Iraq’s occupation of Kuwait lasted just six months, before “Stormin’ Norman” Schwarzkopf and company sent Saddam’s “elite troops” packing, Kuwait remained a badly scarred city when I arrived for, of all things, a series of meetings about fast food…essentially the mother’s milk of public social life in the Muslim world. This was just one of the anomalies of Middle Eastern life that I would encounter over the coming years; Kuwait serving as my introduction to the contradictions and land mines, both real and perceived, of doing business in a very foreign land.
“You don’t need to talk to her,” the Lebanese businessman said to me, as I sat across the table from him and his Jordanian wife, attempting to make small talk in a Kuwaiti restaurant because, well, because that’s what I’d always done in business situations where my counterpart brought his other half. Of course, what I learned that night is that the wife doesn’t quite count for a half. In fact, she doesn’t much count, period. And this was Kuwait—where sheria law is rather liberally defined, certainly when compared to other Muslim strongholds, like Saudi Arabia and Iran. Indeed, this husband/wife dinner package was the one and only time I would even meet a “wife” in my Middle Eastern travels. Anyway, the businessman’s don’t talk to her reprimand got my attention and didn’t seem to bother the wife, so I spent the rest of the evening doing my best to treat her like a coat rack. Weird. »Read More